Go On a Fearless Flavor Adventure in Minneapolis.

Like many fellow Minnesotans, I have always loved to try new and exciting dishes. I’ve also found myself exhausted of my usual restaurants. In a city filled with unique flavors and twists, I knew there had to be something new, something fresh, something that without a doubt would rekindle my excitement and enthusiasm for creative dishes. 

Thanks to our friend the Internet, I was able to find three of the hottest new restaurants in the Twin Cities, all boasting flavors that marry classic cuisines, to create something new, original and most importantly, tasty. As a fearless foodie, I wanted to taste these dishes for myself. So, I set out on a Minneapolis voyage into culinary greatness.

 

Mara

My first stop was the prestigious Mara, claiming its territory within the coveted Four Seasons Hotel in Minneapolis. Mara means “beautiful” in Greek, and this food was exactly that. Running the kitchen is well-known chef, Gavin Kaysen. Kaysen has already wowed critics, accepting the James Beard Award for culinary arts. Winning the title of Best Chef in America in 2018, you could imagine my excitement to try his artistry for myself.

In order to really get an overview of his work, I made sure to embark on a four course journey. The restaurant takes a seamless service approach. Opposed to ordering each course separately, you order all of them at the beginning, as it allowed for an uninterrupted flow of flavor. The waitress was kind, professional and really knowledgeable about everything on the menu. She recommended to try two dishes from each section of the menu. 

Our first appetizer was a classic Mediterranean dish, watermelon and tomatoes. At first, you are greeted with a tangy kick, due to the sumac vinaigrette. After the vinaigrette, the flavor is balanced with some cool mint, fresh cucumber and radish, with feta to marry all of the flavors together.

Following was the ricotta tartine. Tartine is a french open faced sandwich characterized by rich spreads. This dish was a combination of confit garlic, ricotta, slow roasted tomatoes, rosemary and freekeh porridge bread. At Mara, the bread is made in house and it was easy to tell by the high quality taste and texture. What stood out in this dish was the tomatoes. The texture was just right, avoiding any chewiness and replacing it with a fresher bite and a taste similar to that of a flavorful tomato sauce.

Moving on to the next course, the Spanish mackerel and the mangalica ham greeted us. This menu consisted of raw and cured meat, and fish. The thinly-sliced ham accompanied by cherry mostarda (an Italian condiment), was impressive. It was as if you combined a Thanksgiving ham with cranberries, but 100 times better and more complex.  Atop the ham was grated idiazabal cheese, which isn’t a typical cheese but worth loving. The Spanish mackerel was next. I didn’t think I would ever enjoy a cold fish, but once again, I was surprised with a flavor I had never tasted before. The mackerel was topped with radish, dill and cucumber, each serving being bathed in a cucumber consomme. The dill gave this dish a punch of flavor, and I instantly became obsessed with the consomme.

We excitedly made it to the main course, starting with the Alaskan halibut. This dish blew my mind, and was definitely my favorite dish of the night. This was the ultimate example of a flavor journey.  With just the right amount of salt, each component allowed room for appreciation. The mackerel was accompanied by eggplant caponata, squash, garlic puree and a flavorful pesto. This dish does savory the way God intended. The buttery soft halibut combined with a crunchy finish tickled every sense.

If you make your way to Mara, the Alaskan halibut is a must have.  

I knew Mara’s braised lamb shank was going to be amazing, seeing as Mara is a mediterranean restaurant. And I most definitely wasn’t wrong.

Paired with the lamb, dried apricots provided a subtle sweetness, and a bed of lentils added a diverse texture. The lamb was also topped with gremolata, an herb condiment typically made with parsley, lemon zest, and garlic. However, this gremolata had a fresh twist adding mint to the mix.  The lamb had a subtle smoky flavor and effortless texture. Adding in the mint gremolata brought to a whole new level, adding a surprising coolness.

Our waitress then delivered our desserts. As expected, the night ended with an impressive finale.  Our waitress recommended the pistachio semi freddo, a new take on ice cream, with a texture resembling mouse and cream. I really loved the additional pistachio crumbles and the raspberry fruit gel. From creamy to crunchy to tangy, the dessert itself was a tasty journey.

For the final dish, I wanted to experience a flavor I had never heard of before, so when I saw basil ice cream, the decision was made. The riz au lait with the basil ice cream crafted the perfect combination, with the addition of coconut rice pudding and pineapple. This was undoubtedly the perfect dish to end the night.

Mara, was truly a flavor journey worth the reservation. The prices aren’t anything to bat an eye at, but it is truly worth it.  

Little Tijuana

For the next flavor adventure I wanted to find a more casual experience. Little Tijuana, while it is not necessarily new, has recently reopened under new management after closing during COVID-19.

The first thing you will notice walking into Little Tijuana is the unique ambiance. It’s a 70s vibe combined with a western latin undercurrent. The website reveals the restaurant’s motto, “So come in, stay awhile, and don't be an asshole,” which is exactly what you’d appreciate from a lounge. The atmosphere definitely increases your excitement to get right to the food. The menu is equally intriguing, blending together cultures from across the globe to fit perfectly together on your plate in Minnesota.

First, our appetizer flew us all the way to India. As an avid Indian food fan, I was excited to see Little Tijuana’s take on it. Palak paneer is a combination of palak, which is pureed spinach, and paneer, an Indian cottage cheese. This dish had the classic palak paneer, also accompanied by traditionally prepared naan. First off, this naan had to be the best I've ever tasted, so soft that I wanted to wrap myself in it, like a blanket. Cooked perfectly. The spinach puree had just enough spice to satisfy, without taking away from the creaminess of the cottage cheese. Portion sizes are generous, which is a plus when considering price.

Our main courses were extremely innovative, making me appreciate the boldness of this little Minneapolis lounge. I had the scallion pancake wrap. A pancake as a wrap? I’d never heard of it, which is exactly why I chose it. We were there to experience the unconventional, and that's exactly what this dish was. First impression, the wrap resembles a traditional greek gyro, but when I saw its components, I knew I was in for a treat. Picture this: Vietnamese pho wrapped in a pancake-like bread. This wrap contained usual pho ingredients such as bean sprouts, cilantro, mint, hoisin sauce and cucumber, all atop a bed of well marinated beef. All this beauty was accompanied by a heaping serving of waffle fries, giving it a comfortable American twist.

My friend ordered a chicken sandwich, but this was no ordinary chicken sandwich. I had never considered a chicken sandwich to be sweet until I saw it topped with papaya slaw. This along with the chili sauce created the perfect battle between sweet and spicy.

Little Tijuana does an incredible good job of tying together cuisines that otherwise aren’t typically combined. This is not your typical lounge for sure. Little Tijuana is the perfect place to grab one of their iconic margaritas and enjoy a dinner that is sure to surprise you.

 

Gus Gus

Traveling from Minneapolis to St. Paul, you find Gus Gus. Gus Gus has taken over the space which was previously home to Stewart’s on Cleveland Avenue. Chef Kevin Manley and his wife, Anna Morgan, created one of the most unique atmospheres around. The place is known for its Jell-O shots served on a plate. Your favorite iconic college treat, revamped and served at a restaurant.

With an almost goofy ambiance, you can’t help but assume the food will be quite unique.

Looking at the appetizers, I noticed the spiced corn nuts immediately. Not Corn Nuts, but fancier, better and a more complex corn dish; They transcend the gas station associated name by a mile. You are greeted with so many different flavors, making the seasonings the forefront of the dish.  In an interview with chef Manley from Mspmag.com, he reveals the long process of different spices and the historical inspiration for the dish. I think this adds a wholesome and authentic touch to the dish.  

Chips were the second appetizer. Having enjoyed my cured meat experience at Mara, I saw that the chips came with spek.  The chips delivered the perfect crunch. In my experience, lots of restaurant chips have sort of a chewy texture and thankfully, Gus Gus avoided that. Topped with creme fraiche, I appreciated the creamy addition to a seemingly traditional side dish turned enthralling appetizer.

Continuing the theme of creativity came the pork rillette as my entree. My first impression from reading the ingredients was that it seemed similar to a traditional Reuben, which was true and not true. Gus Gus managed to use Reuben ingredients and reinvented them by slapping an egg on top. I was excited but being a huge fan of sauerkraut, I was worried that the egg would take away from the sourness of a traditional reuben; But if anything, the egg complimented all other ingredients. 

Dessert approached and having researched the menu online I already knew I was going to order the butternut pudding. The puddings was topped with a garam masala, which is typical in Indian dishes.  A unique combination of pudding and spice seemed daunting at first, but surprisingly it blended very well and impressed me all around. Graham cracker crumbles added a fresh texture. This desert felt like an excellent way to end my Gus Gus experience, showing me the restaurant's effortless uniqueness once again.

 

New Flavors, Creative Chefs

When searching for restaurants in Minneapolis, it can be hard to branch out from the typical bar food and comfort food scene. Even cuisine like Italian is often redundant and overdone.

These three restaurants possess elements of uniqueness and creativity that many not dare to attempt. Not only did each place have its own unique ambiance, the foods itself hold great personalities as well.

My fearless, flavor voyage surpassed simple satisfaction and gloriously instilled a general appreciation of food. One thing that stood out among all these venues was the fact that I had no desire to quickly eat everything on my plate, I wanted to make sure I could enjoy every single bite to its fullest. If you want to eat somewhere that will leave you wanting more, Mara, Little Tijuana, and Gus Gus will give you a wide range of innovation that you can do nothing but marvel at. Try these Minneapolis gems for chance to travel abroad through food and in the comfort of the North Star state.


 
 









Previous
Previous

Sunday Morning Coming Down Podcast — Episode #124: Interviews and Making the Jump Year 1.

Next
Next

MAKE GLOVE NOT W.A.R. — Episode #1: The Major League Debut.